
I won't go too much into the festival itself, information of which can be easily found by surfing the web. I will rather add to what has already been said by the likes of
Kris and
Giustino.
The
Song Festival, otherwise known as the Big Estonian Grill Party (
Suur Eesti Grillipidu - look it up on wiki if you don't believe me) took place last weekend, 4
th and 5
th of July 2009. It was the 25 time that the Estonian nation got together in one spot to grill and eat the very best (
veri vorst?) of Estonian meat products and, in-between eating, sing a few of the nation's favourite tunes as well.
Okay, let's get serious...
On the whole we liked the festival. Eva and I just went to the final day of the song festival and watched the rest on telly-cat. I'll try not to go too much into the negatives of the festival though there are however a few points I wish to mention and maybe get some feedback on.
Number 1: The horrible bus journey we had on the number 5
Männiku-
Metsakool. The city transport company should cop itself on a put on more transport for major events such as this. I am surprised someone wasn't trampled, squashed or didn't suffocate to death on the bus-ride from hell.
Number 2: The sitting
arrangements (or lack there of) was annoying. Originally we organised a nice plot from where we have a nice view of the stage in a sitting position. Likewise everyone behind us with sitting too. However as the grounds began to fill more and more people stopped looking for places to sit down and just stood right
in front of us completely blocking our view. Now, I like Estonian ass as much as the next foreigner but we did
after all pay to see singers. We were forced to stand which meant we blocked the view of those behind us.
We moved to higher ground under the trees where we got
shelter against the rain but it also left us without the sun's rays and it got very chilly very quickly. Plus we couldn't hear anything of the festival, just the clapping of the people below at the end of each song. Also if people can't hear what's going on they tend to talk which is terribly annoying. So we moved again to stand further down, ironically not far from where we left a nice plot on the ground a couple of hours ago. So we stood for the last two hours of the festival.
It was clear that there just wasn't enough space for everyone that came which forced people to stand and also clogged the passage ways. Thank god no-one got sick or injured before I have no idea how paramedics would have been able to move in such a mass of people.
Number 3: I understand the need of people to eat and does the air need to be that smoky? For a moment I thought there must have been two festivals on at the same time - the song festival and the grill festival. Perhaps there was. It's just that the smell of all that cooked meat was unnerving. Plus the smoke made the stage harder to see, not least of all to take pictures and videos of.
Number 4: The whole event felt exclusive. On the one hand you had people at the front who got seats a great view of the stage that was utterly interactive in nature. They saw and heard everything. Of course they payed up to 8 times as much for the tickets so I guess it's just fair that way. However surely there should have been some live screens and extra speakers so the people further back (us) would have been able to see the stage with its singers and actually hear the lyrics. There were times I didn't even know what song was on
because all I heard was a faint
murmur from down the valley. In a way the TV coverage of Saturday's festival gave us a better view of the festival than actually being there on Sunday. It seemed like the people at the front were at a concert and those at the back were re-
enacting rush-hour traffic Manhattan style equipped with prams, buggies and camping-chairs. However as we got closer to the end of the festival the crowds stopped moving and people started to pay more attention to the stage.
Okay, that said there were lots of positive sides to the festival as well that I will now turn to just so you know I
amn't a grump (all of the time).
The festival was really cheap. My ticket was 100eek (€6.39) and Eva's was just half that, 50eek. It was well worth the money
because despite the bad points, we spent just under 6 hours listening to music and being actively part of the Estonian nation. Giustino has said that:
Laulipidu is an exercise in identity building...[people] leave the Laulupidu as one of the Estonian masses while Kris has said that
the Song Festival is practically a sacred duty (see links above). It's true that the festival holds a special place in the culture and history of the Estonian nation (which I wrote about
here) and as the day wore on you could sense that oneness that I had heard about so many times and that I became hooked on from watching the
docfilm The Singing Revolution. As the songs went by I got over my
intial annoyances and just went with the flow.
I felt
privileged to have been there, to have seen this great coming-together, this cultural institution that is the
laulupidu. I did feel some of that
laulupidu magic yesterday and no doubt during the next one I will feel much more.
I am not a tourist in Estonian, but neither am I a
väliseestlane. Sometimes I don't really know my place here. Should I allow myself become swept up with this tide of Estonian nationalism? How does being an
Estophile fit in with my being Irish? There is an old Irish saying:
Ní féidir leat freastal ar an dá thrá (You can’t serve two masters).
I guess I felt all these questions yesterday. I have been coming to and from Estonia now since Easter 2006 and the country continues to grow on me. I have travelled her length and breadth and I have seen her great Egg Mountain. I have picked mushrooms from her forests and berries from her bogs. I have been to a song festival and I have seen her American
dickie-bow wearing President three times with my own eyes. I have even eaten blood sausage and meat jelly!
And yet I feel like there is something missing. To me the ways of Estonians are still a mystery. Even after over three years I have still to master how to refuse a second helping of
manna piimaga à la
estonien let alone feel comfortable with the plural partitive case!
Yes, I have a lot to learn and maybe not
understanding the lyrics of the songs (only their titles) was a factor that took away somewhat from yesterday. I wonder though in 2014 (when the festival shall next been around and I will be 29), attending the
Laulu- Tantsupidu with my
eesti naine of four years and our one
pool-eestlane (or two
pool-eestlast ?) if I will feel more a part of the Estonian nation. I don't doubt it.
So while leaving the song ground yesterday I bought myself a festival
commemorative pin for less than €2 to mark the occasion of my first festival-attendance. I will be back and maybe next time I will understand to what I am singing along.
Aitäh ja nägemist!